When Life Gives You Lemons: Preserve Them!

Preserved Lemons In Progress

Homemade preserved lemons are a revelation

I’m not sure there is a single ingredient that is more iconic or recognizable in the Moroccan kitchen than the preserved lemon.  If you’ve ever tried your hand at Moroccan cooking, it’s very likely that you’ve seen them on your ingredient list.  Or, perhaps you’ve seen them lingering on the shelves of the “ethnic” food aisle at your local grocery store.

For the longest time I would either skip adding preserved lemons altogether or just grate a little fresh lemon zest in at the end of the recipe.  I can tell you from experience those were very, very rookie mistakes because neither option is an appropriate choice. Preserved lemons fundamentally change the nature and flavor profile of a dish.

I eventually stopped skipping the ingredient and upgraded to purchasing jars of them at the grocery store.  I tried several different brands, all of which I found to be oddly briny and almost chemically tasting.  Being the purist that I am, I was looking for that unique, bright pop of flavor that I had tasted many times in Morocco.  Sorry mainstream grocery store brands – you’re not even close.

Fish Tagine with Preserved Lemon
Arctic Char in Broth With Homemade Preserved Lemon

For a long time I had thought about making preserved lemons at home.  I generally like a good project in the kitchen, but the process of salt curing lemons, waiting 30 days to use them – pass.  I enjoy instant gratification in the kitchen.

Upon returning from my most recent trip to Morocco, I headed immediately into my kitchen to start recreating dishes I had tasted on my trip such as Caramelized Fennel With Golden Raisin Salad and Seafood Tagine.  The only problem – most of the dishes contained preserved lemons!  Seeing as I stepped off of a plane and into a global pandemic, I suddenly had nothing but time on my hands.  I thought, well, I don’t think there’s a better time than now to finally make those damn lemons! 

How To Cut A Preserved Lemon

I assure you that when prepared properly, homemade preserved lemons are an absolute REVELATION and honestly, they could not be any easier to make.  The ingredient list is simple – lemons, salt and a bit of time.  Plus, there was actually something kind of therapeutic about seeing a beautiful jar of lemons resting a top the kitchen counter.

Preserved Lemon Final Product
The Finished Product

The experience also reminded me of being a kid.  Seeing a jar of lemons on my kitchen counter everyday took me straight back to the old school days of my grandmother’s kitchen.  In an instant, I remembered something I hadn’t thought about in years:  Jars of preserved lemons and carrots piled high into dark cabinets near my grandmother’s pantry.  I used to wonder what she was doing with so many lemons, but now it all makes sense!  She was from North Africa, after all.  Feel free to read more about her journey to The States and get her famous Pasta with Italian Tuna Recipe.

Ready to try your hand at making preserved lemons?  Instructions on how to make them at home are below.  And because not everyone, including myself, is a total expert at cooking with preserved lemons, here are a few of my favorite Moroccan cookbooks that will provide you with all the inspiration you need. If you don’t own a Moroccan cookbook – one of these is a great place to start. They are packed with recipes for some seriously tasty food.

Get Moroccan Recipes!

Moroccan Cookbooks

For The Serious Cook: The Food Of Morocco By Paula Wolfert

This is the ultimate resource when it comes to Moroccan cooking.  Paula Wolfert has put together an encyclopedia on Moroccan food in the best way possible.  The book has all of the classic dishes you’d want to make at home – plus, many more you didn’t know you needed in your life.  Moroccan food can actually be quite regional and the book does a wonderful job of highlighting everything from costal city dishes to Berber cuisine.  The Lake Trout in Broth With Preserved Lemons is not to miss!!   

For Those Looking To Try Something New: Arabesque By Claudia Rodin

I have gifted this book countless times it has been a favorite in my cookbook collection for years.  This beautiful book not only highlights Moroccan cuisine but features Lebanese and Turkish dishes as well.  The collection of recipes is a wonderful nod to the Arab world.  The Moroccan dishes that are contained within, in some cases, are simplified versions of more complicated dishes (I’m looking at you Bastilla).  The chicken with caramelized pearl onions is a crowd pleaser.

A Rare, But Wonderful Choice: Moroccan Cooking, Our Dada’s Recipes By La Maison Arabe

This book may be a challenge to find as I actually purchased it in Morocco (although there are two copies currently available on Amazon right now) but well worth the search.  This smaller and more concise book features food from the very well known La Maison Arabe in Marrakech.  It features a collection of recipes by the Dadas, or cooks, that have made the restaurant what it is today.  The book not only contains recipes but also shares information on Moroccan wine and a brief history of the riad La Maison Arabe itself.  Inside, you’ll find less recipes than the other resources I’m sharing, but it is worth the purchase if you’re interested in traditional dishes.  Plus, if you’ve ever been to Marrakech and actually visited La Maison Arabe – this book will take you right back.

If you’re going to try cooking out of any of these books, you’ll likely need a tagine! While not traditional, I love my Le Creuset Tagine for its cast iron bottom which makes it useable on the stovetop and in the oven.

I hope you found this post and these resources helpful.  If you enjoyed reading, let me know!  I’d love to hear from you in the comments below.

Bonne Chance et Bonne Appétit!

A Guide: How to Preserve Lemons

Recipe by dinnerswithdaveCourse: Pantry StaplesCuisine: MoroccanDifficulty: Easy

Preserved lemons are a staple in the Moroccan kitchen and make a wonderful addition to stews and vegetable salads. They offer a unique pop of flavor that is distinctly… well, preserved lemon. Generally, the pulp is discarded and the peel eaten so it is important to buy organic lemons that are unwaxed for this preparation. No one needs to be eating chemicals or wax. The method below is the most traditional preparation. These take 30 days to cure and will last for up to a year!

Ingredients

Directions

  • Prepare the lemons by washing them very well. Remember, you’re going to be eating the skin so you want it to be very clean. Lengthwise, cut the lemons into quarters leaving the stem end in tact. The goal is to be able to pull apart the quarters of the lemon to pack them with salt while keeping the lemon in tact.
  • Ensure your jar is very clean. Sprinkle a little salt into the bottom of the jar. Take approx. 1T of salt and pack it into the cuts of the lemon. Drop the lemon into the jar, press it firmly with a wooden spoon, extracting some juice and sprinkle with a generous pinch of salt. Repeat with the remaining three lemons pressing firmly on each after dropping it in the jar to extract juice.
  • Once your jar is filled, sprinkle additional salt onto the top of the lemons and top off with lemon juice until lemons are covered. If juice doesn’t totally cover the lemons, press firmly on the stack of lemons with a wooden spoon to continue to extract juice from the lemons. Seal jar with lid and leave it in a cool place for a minimum of 30 days.
  • After several days, the lemons will have started to soften. Open the jar occasionally and press the lemons down into the jar extracting additional juice, assuring the lemons are completely submerged. I’ve also found it helpful to gently shake the jar upside-down from time to time to make sure all lemons are coated and that the salt distribution is even.
  • After 30 days, the lemons are ready to use. Most recipes will call for the peel only. Be sure to rinse them thoroughly under cold water before use to remove the saltiness. Enjoy!

Recipe Video

Notes

  • *Depending on the size of your lemons, you may be able to fit additional lemons into the jar. The salt to lemon ratio is approx. 1T of salt per lemon. Adjust quantities as needed based on number of lemons and the size of your jar. Just be sure they’re totally covered in freshly squeeze lemon juice and you’ll be fine!

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